How to Buy Fabric

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If you’re redecorating your house, or want to turn your hand to making or customising clothes, then chances are you’ll need to go fabric shopping. But when you enter that fabric shop (and you should always go to a specialist!) and see all those choices, it can be somewhat daunting.

So, the following is a guide to buying the right fabric for you, making sure you get what you want, and making sure you have enough of it.

Buy more fabric than you (think you) need

It probably sounds like a ploy by fabric sellers, but it really is a good idea to buy more than you think you need: You can never have enough fabric!

You never know when something might go wrong, which is why you should never buy just enough for a specific pattern. The shop might have run out by the time you go back, or you may find that the fabric is from a different dye lot, meaning the colours won’t be a perfect match.

Be open-minded about fabrics

Don’t go to the fabric shop with a specific fabric or colour in mind. If you do this, you are severely limiting your options, and you might discount the fabric that could be perfect for that dress.

So be open-minded. Ask the shop owner for advice, and don’t be afraid to be a little experimental. Of course, some fabrics just won’t work for certain things, and that’s fine. Don’t buy a fabric that’s the wrong texture or weight because you like the pattern, it won’t look right.

On the other hand, if you see a fabric you like, buy it! You will surely be able to find another use for it, especially if you make a lot of clothes.

Also, always take the opportunity to buy fabric when you’re travelling. Places like India and northern Africa are well known for their sumptuous, beautifully coloured fabrics. Even if you’re not going anywhere especially exotic, you’ll find something different to what there is back home, so take advantage.

Practicalities of buying fabric

Now onto the more practical side of fabric buying.

Beware of furry fabrics – they will shed, and tend to be ripped rather than cut. You’ll need to buy a little more furs than you need, so you can sew the seams far enough in that the fabric doesn’t tear or unravel.  Also, wash any fabric that’s going to be used for clothing, in case of shrinkage.

In terms of how much you should buy, fabrics are sold by the yard in the USA and by the metre in the UK.  Once you’ve picked your pattern, look at the back to find out how much you need (this is usually shown in both imperial and metric measurements).  Don’t forget to take into account repeating patterns and naps in the fabric, which may mean you need to buy a little bit more.

Don’t try to be stingy with fabric: Your pattern will show you how to lay out the pieces on your fabric – if you don’t follow these guidelines precisely, your garment won’t hang properly.  On fabrics with a nap like velvet, this can completely ruin your finished garment.

Caution: Be wary of buying fabric outright from online suppliers if you have your heart set on a certain colour or look.  Always request samples (good suppliers will give you them for free), to check the colour and feel of the fabric first.

Finishing touches for your fabric

Some patterns will need specific types of fabrics to achieve the right shape (for example clothing with cuffs or collars).  You may find that you need additional trimmings or stiffer fabrics for small areas only. You also need to choose a thread that matches the colour of, and is suitable for use with, your chosen fabric(s).

Finally, after you’ve chosen and bought your fabric, you need to ensure you’ve got the correct needles.

Light, delicate fabrics like silk, satin and chiffon need more delicate needles than heavier fabrics such as denim or canvas. Again, the shop assistant will be able to help you if you’re not sure, but after all that effort you’ve put into choosing the right fabric, the last thing you want to do is damage it.

Buying fabric needn’t be scary. After all, you’ve got a lot more freedom than if you were simply buying your clothes on the high street, so just have fun with it!

Katie Saxon works with White Lodge Fabric, a UK-based online fabric supplier selling fabrics around the world.