Many people find getting a puncture when they’re out for a pleasant ride in the country a deflating experience! It needn’t be. It’s a simple matter to repair it yourself and save yourself paying a bike shop to do it when you get home!
You will need
- Allen key or spanner for non Quick Release wheels
- Puncture repair kit. This should include assorted patches, tube of rubber solution, small piece of sandpaper and a crayon
- Chalk or talcum powder
1. First check the outside of the tyre for anything which might have caused the puncture. A thorn sticking out of the tyre is usually quite obvious and makes it easy to locate the hole in the inner tube. Check for cuts/splits in the tyre, these are usually caused by glass. Be careful not to cut yourself if any shards are still embedded in the tyre.
2. Remove the wheel from the bike by undoing the Quick Release lever, or loosening the wheel nuts/allen bolts. If you bike has V-type or calliper brakes these can usually be released to allow the wheel to be removed. Alternatively leave the brakes connected and squeeze the deflated tyre past the brake pads. If your bike is fitted with disc brakes the wheel can usually be pulled straight out. If the puncture is at the rear of the bike shift into the highest gear (smallest sprocket). This will make it easier to get the wheel out. Take note of how the chain wrapped around the sprocket to aid in refitting.
3. Insert a tyre lever between the wheel rim and the tyre bead to lift the tyre up over the wheel rim. Repeat this a few inches away from the first lever. This should give you enough slack in the tyre to slide the lever all the way around the wheel lifting the tyre off the rim as it goes. Once the tyre is off all the way round on one side repeat this on the other side until the tyre is released from the rim. Some people only unhook one side of the tyre and just remove the tube. I find it easier to check for sharp objects with the tyre completely off. This also lets you check to see if the puncture was caused by a sharp edge on the rim.
4. If you didn’t find the cause of the puncture by inspecting the tyre, you now need to check the tube. Mark the valve position with the crayon on the tyre as a point of reference, then remove the tube from the tyre. If you are out on the trail/road you probably won’t have a bucket of water handy! Pump some air into the tube and you should be able to hear/feel the air escaping as you rotate the tube past your face. If you are fixing the tyre at home you can use the bucket of water so you don’t look weird! Once you have found the puncture mark it with the crayon. Check the same place on the tyre so you can remove whatever punctured the tube should it still be there. You did mark that valve position didn’t you?!
5. Roughen the area around the puncture in preparation for the patch (this helps it to adhere to the inner tube). Apply a thin film of rubber solution covering an area slightly larger than your chosen patch. Speaking of patches you should use feather edged patches on racing bikes to avoid a bulge in the tyre.
You can either wait for the rubber solution to become dry to the touch. Or, if you’re in a hurry blow it gently until the glue looks cloudy, then after removing the backing paper from the patch. Press it down firmly over the puncture. Grate the chalk over the repair and rub it in well to remove tackiness. If you have talcum powder spread it liberally over the whole tube.
6. To refit the tube into the tyre, partially inflate it just enough for it to hold it’s shape. Place the tube back inside the tyre and fit them back on as one. Placing the valve through the hole in the rim first, then easing the tyre bead back onto the rim with your thumbs. Only using the tyre levers for the last bit if needed. This method reduces the chance of pinching the tube between the tyre and wheel rim.
7. Now refit the wheel. Refitting is the reversal of removal. Inflate the tyre to the correct pressure as shown on the tyre sidewall.
Images © Hungryplants 2009




